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| - Wow. Having ordered an espresso, and Americano and a cafe au Lait from this business, I have formulated a hypothesis as to the taste-semiotic of North Americans. I know this seems reaching and simplistic, but a brief analysis of 'third wave' coffee rhetoric via the 'blogosphere' only affirms the exegesis you are about to read.
Up until the early 90's most North Americans desire for coffee seemed to be encapsulated in Folgers, 'hugga mugga' Maxwell House, and Nabob. These coffees are indicated by lack of complexity, no discernable body and the total avoidance of flavours which may be too 'intense' for the palate of the majority of the directed demographic. The semiotic problem here is of course a lack of culture, literacy (cultural literacy as well), refinement and experiential nuance. By extension the semiotic indicates lower class, not elite, plebeian, unrefined, lowest common denominator, et cetera.
Then, businesses like Second Cup -- under fiscal threat by the upcoming Starbucks phenomena -- alerted the aforementioned demographic to an entire subculture of (mostly) individuals who seemed to treat coffee as something other than a carrying medium for a legal stimulant. Arabic, African, Turkish, European and British (yes) taste history was presented by the above competitors in a conflated manner (IE Au Lait/Latte). The 'Hugga Mugga' demographic realized that out of every ten of them, one happened to (for instance) have immigrant parents who had sought out specialty roasters upon gaining residency (for example in Montreal, New York, San Francisco, Vancouver and Seattle). This one-out-of-ten happened to appreciate coffee in a manner not presented to most North Americans by the major coffee sellers.
A couple of decades, a few corporations, and some Spectacular Recuperation later, North Americans have managed to recuperate the semiotic of coffee. Their manner indicates culture, literacy, refinement, and an experiential understanding of nuance. Of course, this is merely appearance -- a facade, a fake and two-bait switch. The proof of this end? Phil and Sebastian.
The decor is crisp, well-maintained. Beautiful in a streamlined and open-spaced fashion. I want to spend all day in the space. The staff? Knowledgable about the coffee, the machines, the sequence of various preparations, et cetera. The paraphernalia surrounding the experience (the cups, utensils, et cetera) are of an apparent quality above the 'fast food' level. Everything about going to Phil and Sebastian makes me feel good -- about myself, as well as the world around me.
Except for the coffee.
The coffee is by no means offensive. It's not 'Charbucks'. It's not 'Fauxcal' (roasted in a high-volume and industrialized manner, yet in Calgary, so the product is local in the sense that Lakeside or Cargill meat is 'local'). In fact Phil and Sebastian's coffee (with the exception of its espresso) is at an antipodal position to offence. It's submissive. It lacks complexity, it lacks assertive body. It has no flavours or aromas that are 'intense' to the extent that they may bother someone.
In short, Phil and Sebastian makes coffee indistinguishable from Maxwell House, Folger's or Nabob. Except for the presentation and framing.
The hermeneutic exegesis which has occurred is cyclical. Throughout most of the twentieth century the major coffee companies determined that North Americans had a taste profile which was, in fact, what they wanted. What these companies failed to recognize was that this demographic also wanted the semblance of cultural and personal authentication. Most North Americans want boring, grey, submissive coffee while paying exorbitant amounts for a sense of literacy, culture, refinement, and nuanced awareness
Bear in mind I noted that their espresso was an exception to the above. Almost unpalatable. Imagine a warm laser of lemon and sour cream wrapped in a towel soaked in used motor fluid. Now imagine sucking on that.
If you want an espresso based drink I suggest getting it made with any roast darker than city/viennese. Light french as the bare minimum. Single origin gets old quick. Go Italian roast, experiment with blends, and avoid African beans (not completely, but don't make the blend primarily African).
If you like submissive coffee go to P & S. If you wish to try how Arabic, European, African and Turkic cultures drink it, go somewhere else.
If you want to look cultured in a 'fast food' sort of way, go to P & S.
If you (as I) like well designed spaces, go to P & S. It certainly is fun to relax there. With coffee from somewhere else, of course....
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