| rev:text
| - Kukum is low-key slowly becoming my favourite restaurant in the city -- the first time, I came here for dinner and the second time for weekend brunch. And I'm estatic they are now open for lunch.
So, I get it -- there's a lot of press and hype about the restaurant. Despite living in the area, I was initially only interested because of the seal meat... or more accurately, because of the shrill outcry of animal rights activist attracted me here... cuz... fuck 'em.
So, everyone tries the seal meat. In short, the seal tartare didn't strike me one way or the other and I probably won't order it again (might try the seared seal loin before I write it off completely). However, once you ignore the 'gimmick' dish -- the chef is damned skilled and we really enjoyed the seafood bouillabaisse and elk loin - the accompanying vegetables were spectacular. The service and presentation were excellent. And honestly, I felt it was a decent value. You're getting really original dishes for about $20 - $30 for a dinner entree... I've paid the same for burgers and fries at shitty pubs.
I thought that Kukum was going to be a 'one-and-done' place for me. Try seal meat, snap some pics for the 'Gram and tilt some crybabies - #loldealwithit. And the narrative is... complicated. I appreciate there's some Indigenous cuisine being represented, it makes me cringe hard when some people think patronizing a restaurant like this is worth signaling in some sad attempt to assuage 'white guilt'. Don't get me wrong - I appreciate someone being a flag-bearer for their community and culture... but at the same time, I don't think all cuisine is worthy of celebration (shrug).
At the end of the day, we wanted to go back. Food was good, value is there and it was an experience - ignore the narrative, it's a solid place.
We went back for weekend brunch. Which is the gantlet for me - typically overpriced bullshit, it was the true test. If I can have brunch at Kukum and walk away sated and not feeling ripped off, I might love this place.
And the Caribou Hash with fried egg for $16 was stellar. Would probably be too gamey for some, but it was so tender and flavourful for me. The lady got a seared tuna dish which was on special and it was damned near artistic in presentation. However, I must say that $4 for coffee/tea is a bit crazy.
Skimming around the other reviews, I can understand why some people feel disappointed. However, I can only advise people to ignore the hype and narrative and come in with an open mind. You'll probably won't find a life-changing experience that some 'best of...' list would have you believe. However, if you keep in mind that it's a local restaurant offering some truly unique dishes at reasonable prices -- you'll probably be impressed. And honestly, for me, it's much more difficult to become a restaurant that I can and will become a 'regular' at... than a one-time 'zOMG so gooood' restaurant that you will probably never go back to. Will be back for lunches, dinners and brunches.
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