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  • I am so excited that Underground Food Collective opened up this new restaurant! It's not meant to replace Underground Kitchen, which closed last year after a fire, but it's definitely filled that gap in Madison for inventive farm-to-table food. My husband and I came on a Saturday evening during their first week being advertised as open, about 7:45, and were told we'd have a half hour wait. The space is small -- tables for about 20-25 plus bar seating -- and has plenty of natural light, dark wood, and kitschy taxidermic decor (not so much to offend our vegetarian sensibilities). We ordered a couple of cocktails and waited by the windows, where a ledge for drinks and candles provided a nice space to hang out. I got a martini, listed on the menu as having Death's Door gin (local!), sherry, and pickled ramps. How could that not be delicious? My husband got a manhattan with rye and cucumber in it, which was an interesting way to turn a very wintery drink into something appropriate for the summer. We both liked my martini a bit better than his manhattan. When we were seated, we ordered a great bottle of wine and four plates to share, as the menu is small-to-medium servings. We started out with a local cheese plate, which featured a local camembert-style cheese that was complex and wonderful, along with little toasts, strawberry (and some herb that I can't remember) jam and some lavender sprigs. The cheese was plated on a thick board of wood and was very aesthetically pleasing. Next, we shared an early summer salad of pea vines, radishes, snap peas, and feta; a roasted carrot dish made with young carrots, pecans, and a sharply flavored yogurt sauce; and a shiitake mushroom dish with dandelion shoots and pickled fruit (this was meant to be served with chicharrones, but they were happy to make it vegetarian for us). Everything tasted incredibly fresh, earthy, and unique, with flavor combinations that are clearly meant to contrast and surprise you. We finished off the meal with a trio of lemon chiffon tarts: blueberry, strawberry, and raspberry. They were a perfect finish to our rather large dinner -- light, bright, and delicious. The pricing seems very fair for what they provide. The plates and cocktails range from $8-12 each. Forequarter pulled off all of the dishes wonderfully. My only suggestions would be to make more of their vegetarian dishes vegan-friendly and to get some more bike-parking options outside the restaurant. I can't wait to see what they come up with next as the seasonal produce changes!
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