| rev:text
| - Coconuts operates from that weird, highly subjective, much-maligned zone between "more-authentic-than-thou" grubby Mexican and the high-falutin' explorations of Border Grill, Mesa Grill, et al. The menu offerings are a shade more inventive than standard Tex-Mex, and it's not like they're throwing Velveeta on everything to please Joe and Mary Tourist, but if you have strong opinions about Mexican food, this could be a workhorse winner or something you rant about in the car all the way home.
Speaking of Joe and Mary Tourist, we visited Coconuts right before a movie at Rave across the way (which is exactly the perfect circumstance for a visit). Once in the cinema, we saw a commercial for Coconuts that may as well have been a government-run experiment in cognitive dissonance. That frat party up on the big screen? With the boobie innuendos that make Hooters seem like subtle classical allusions to the female form? Yeah, we didn't go to that place. In fact, that was the place I'd avoided for ages, based on some reviews here.
The place we visited in the late afternoon (5:30ish) was full of ordinary-looking and acting couples and foursomes, perhaps mid-20's to mid-50s. Nobody was dressed to impress. Nobody was in some state of undress. Even the music was peaceful and gently tropical. (I think it was the soundtrack to 50 First Dates.)
And although the claw machine ($2 to try to pluck up a lobster - win and they'll cook it) gave me moral pause, I had to admit that the overall atmosphere was pleasant and not as if they'd just hung up items from a Standard-Issue Beach-Themed Restaurant Kit.
If Coconuts would ditch the Waitresses Gone Wild marketing angle, I could see this being a family place with wink to the adults with the fully stocked bar.
(Family = older kids who don't need to be entertained by something other than dinner conversation to get through the meal without throwing things or screaming. The decor is fun, but this isn't the Rainforest Cafe.)
You'd never believe that Lolita's was in the same space... and I'm kind of glad. I quite liked the food at Lolita's, which was nothing at all like Coconuts, but Lolita's always felt like it was trying very hard to make sure its cultivated hipness was maintained at all times.
This may well be a tale of two restaurants: the attractive daytime scene and the desperate party at night.
Most appetizers are half-price during the week between 4-6, so my husband went a little nuts ordering. As he describes in his review, the chips were very oily and heavy. (And they aren't free, as is the norm, but since we were getting a great price on our other appetizers, it worked out.) Salsa was nondescript. The guacamole was okay, but I'm not a huge guac fan unless it's kind of fancy, so I shouldn't be allowed to vote on that.
What intrigued me about the cheese enchiladas I ordered is that they're filled with Oaxaca and queso fresco (not unusual but it's always reassuring when you're in a middle-road restaurant and it's not Jack, cheddar, etc.) *and* with Manchego, a less typical choice. Also, you can choose red or green sauce; I'm just a sucker for being able to have a tomatillo sauce with straight-up cheese enchiladas. (Too many restaurants seem to reserve the tomatillo sauce for more duded-up creations.)
Was the meal great? Nah, but it was all solid fare (chips aside) at the right price in a great location with a relaxed ambiance.
One thing I can see people complaining about might be the strength of the booze. I almost never drink (alcohol) - if I have a drink every year, I'd be surprised - but I was really in the mood for a creative milkshake. I decided to get the Almond Joy.
The choc-coconut concoction was tasty and hit all my chocoholic buttons, but I was only dimly, maybe, aware of an alcohol taste, and I didn't feel anything at all. I almost always get giggly and flushed after a few sips of booze, including foo-foo frozen drinks, but either that was the smoothest alcohol ever served, or it was piss-weak. Since I made my husband (who usually abhors even a tiny bit of alcohol taste) try some, and he a) thought it was good, and b) couldn't detect alcohol at all, I'm voting for "piss-weak."
I didn't mind, since I was in it for the dessert experience and not the buzz, but if you're paying $10 for a boozy shake, you might feel ripped off.
I can easily see coming back for lunch or an early dinner when we want to grab a sit-down bite before a movie without paying heaps, dealing with a crowded bar scene, or dodging strangely limited menus. (I'm looking at you, English's. Britain is a fantastic country for vegetarians, so what's your excuse?)
Would I take out-of-town friends here? Only if their culinary yardstick of Mexican food experience is more like a ruler. But as much as I was prepared to dislike Coconuts, they surprised me. Re-brand this as a tropical getaway for every crowd, and I think they could fill a niche at Town Square that has been sorely overlooked. Hmm.
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