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| - If you're scared off by areas of town that aren't the best, you probably should go elsewhere. There are plenty of other places to eat. This isn't the ghetto, but it is right next to it.
If you prefer to have fancy decor and modern furnishings, you might want to check out another location. Not of the Old Hickory House (because I don't think there is one). But of some other restaurant. Mike K.'s characterization of old Bonanza! props blowing up is not inaccurate.
If you need another, think of an old-time steak house. The walls are paneled. The interior is dark. Even the wall sconces - which you would probably never hear them called - are little covered wagons. In the one nod to the current century you might find, they do have compact fluorescent bulbs in them. It also might be the only way they can keep said covers from bursting into flames.
Over in one corner is indeed The Pit - or at least some representation of it. It is a bit dark inside, even well before it gets dark outside. So I can't tell exactly what is over there. When you order, the man I will call the Pitmaster gets your order and pulls some meat out of The Pit and prepares it for you - generally this means chopping it - and then you get the freshly prepared meat on the plate, right to your table.
There are a couple of downsides to the Old Hickory House.
I personally don't care about the location. I lived in an area similar to this for ten years. So that didn't bother me. It was like going home again. But if this is the sort of thing you care about, you may want to think twice.
I didn't really mind the 50s steakhouse kitsch, but it could use a bit more light. Not saying they need an atrium or skylight or anything, and I understand why they may not want windows now that they operate next to the ghetto, but maybe they could turn up the brightness on the interior lighting or something so you don't think there is a Barbecue Mafia hit happening in the back corner. At 2pm.
I did mind the service. Just a bit. While others mentioned the service was speedy, I will agree - but only after the initial contact. It took probably 15 minutes to get someone to acknowledge that we were there. This may not be a big deal during a dinner rush on a Friday night. But in the middle of the afternoon, when there are only three tables, and there are at least six employees standing behind the counter while only one (the eldest by a good margin) waited on tables? Unacceptable. After she came by to take our order, both food and drinks kept up a good pace however.
I would suggest ordering the sauce on the side. I get that some people may like it, but I really didn't. Like Dave S., I ordered the beef and pork plate, and I also much preferred the pork. That pork in fact may be some of the best pork in town. But the sauce was so thick and heavy that it killed the taste completely. The menu does say that the sauce comes on the meat by default but it needs a more stern warning! A little of this stuff goes a long way - either it needs to be on the side by default or they need to be a little less heavy with it.
I did find it interesting that they are old school. No sides to speak of (and no, fries, hush puppies and beans don't really count). You won't even find macaroni and cheese here. But the puppies are pretty good - crispy on the outside, if a little too chewy on the inside for my preference. The beans are indeed tasty. If I go back I might go for just some un-sauced chopped pork and beans.
Sweet Tea Report: Excellent, sweet goodness. Among the best in town and awesomely drinkable. The only problem I had was keeping the glass full enough to keep it flowing down my throat.
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