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  • So let me set the scene. Mid-August, on holiday in Montreal. We two American tourists are walking randomly along, just taking our time, drinking in the sights, smells, and sounds of the Latin Quarter in Montreal. It's a warm afternoon, but not overly so. Our first anniversary, and we're having a corker of a time, just being together in a foreign city, enjoying what life has to offer. Then I spot...IT...over a garden fence, and I stop dead in my tracks. "The HELL is that?" Two enormous...people...who appear to be crafted from papier-maiche, gazing lovingly at one another. "Oh, I've GOT to see what this is all about." My wife shrugs and follows, knowing as she does that once I have some damn fool errand in my head, it's madness to try to dissuade me. I approach to get a better look, and see that these two towering statues, like the Colossus of Rhodes, are no mere artist's renderings, but rather guardians which bear witness to a marvelous land: Saint-Sulpice. Saint-Sulpice: a vast, bacchanalian beer garden tucked inauspiciously into a side street, which, for someone from a puritanical city where such a thing would be looked on with horror and disgust by the city fathers, is a kind of promised land. We take a table, and order a few frosty brews, relax, and play a game or two of rummy. The servers are as relaxed as we are, but attentive, and fill our glasses when we ask, and vanish into the afternoon when they are not needed. Perhaps the highlight for me was the Jersey-Shore-esque bachelorette party which traipsed through, or perhaps it was just the relaxation of a huge outdoor patio surrounded by beautiful trees through which the sun shone while we enjoyed a lazy afternoon of gin rummy and good Canadian beer. Had it been a very hot day, however, the archway which constantly emitted a superfine mist of cool water, through which a heated patron could find relief, surely that would have been the oasis I treasured the most. Just knowing that some thoughtful publican had thought to install such a feature for his guests made me smile. I love you Montreal, and Saint-Sulpice is one of the reasons why.
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