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| - Let's not fool ourselves. Seafood joints in landlocked states are always a dicey proposition. Seafood joints in the middle of the desert seem almost insane. Somehow though, there is one tucked away right here that can almost completely make you forget where you are.
Blink and you'll miss this restaurant, nestled in a strip center at the southeast corner of 59th Avenue and Union Hills. The parking in front is insufficient, with two large handicapped spots and three regular spots full at almost all hours. Other parking in the large parking lot is always available for those brave enough to walk fifty paces in the heat.
The restaurant itself is small and simple. Not much more than a counter to order at, a self-serve beverage and condiment area, and about a dozen tables inside a clean and nautically-themed room. The theme is cute without being over-the-top, there's even a picture of me in a sailor's hat on the wall if you look closely enough. I had heard tell that the decor here was overpowering but found that not to be the case. Perhaps it was toned down in recent months.
The staff here is friendly, there were two persons on duty at the late hour in which I stopped for dinner. While going over the menu, the counter clerk made polite suggestions and even offered a substitution at no additional cost. Let me just say that things like this are getting fewer and farther between as the Great Recession drags on. I appreciated his suggestions and his help, and found that his offer to substitute something else in order to completely please a customer was a wonderful breath of fresh air.
I was feeling good about that when I took my seat, but feeling even better when the food arrived. This place does not mess around. Your battered items will be served to you piping hot with a perfect batter shell. It isn't too light, it isn't too thick, it is just the way it should be and it tastes delicious. They do not skimp with their fish, either. You order something, you're going to get the full cut. I found the shrimp cocktail to be among the best I have ever had, and couldn't believe I thought that.
As a longtime clam chowder aficionado, I had to try it here just to see where it stood. My chowtime companion who hails from San Francisco (the home of clam chowder no matter what those silly chowda-swilling Bostonians say) and I were stunned to admit that the stuff here ranks right up there with the best of what is offered in seafaring towns. I didn't want to admit that but I had to. It was just that good. The soup was thick without being syrupy, and flavorful without being explosive. The bread bowl it was served in was nicely soft and tasty. I would highly recommend this soup.
I was able to thoroughly enjoy seafood while staring at a cactus out the window. For bending my mind that way, Pier 83 deserves a full five stars!
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