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| - Went to Umi last night, and it was tough to get a reservation, which is usually a good sign. But actually, in retrospect, its just a sign that people are not aware of the quality of sushi that can be found elsewhere in Pittsburgh. It was sad, really.
We began with the miso soup, which was some of the
best we have had. Nice and hot, and perfectly seasoned. But it was downhill from there.
The salad was just ok. Mixed greens were wilted, but the dressing was tasty.
We then moved on to the "good stuff," or so we thought...
We began with the highly-recommended "yellowtail sashimi with yuzu jalapeño sauce" -- it was overly ceviche'd, and lost its freshness, replaced by a tough, dried-out quality. While a small sliver of jalapeno was a nice touch for sharpness, it didn't compensate for the poor quality preparation of the fish itself. We next had a spicy tuna roll (which, I think, is a barometer for sushi quality in any restaurant). It was dry and average, at best. Nothing special, but no egregious mistakes either. We moved on to the "sushi entree (assorted)", which had 8 pieces of assorted sushi, each consisting of a piece of fish: yellowtail prepared exactly like the previous dish but with rice this time; two pieces of salmon topped with (of all things) cream cheese and a cherry tomato (come on, this was so disappointingly reminiscent of brunch -- where's the caper and english muffin?; mackarel which was less-than-tasty, again topped with a dollup of something indistinct and non-complementary; tuna (average); red snapper maybe; and a paper-thin piece of mild whitefish, which tasted like rice, owing to its diminutive portioning; and a tuna maki roll, which was dry and shriveled and appeared limp, like it was prepared earlier that day.
I was expecting an artful presentation, but was shocked at the lack of playful creativity that I, at that point, assumed might account for the inflated prices compared to other restaurants in the area (since the quality of flavor was actually MUCH poorer than other local places).
Next to us was seated a couple on a date, where the man was clearly trying to impress his lady (both dressed very nicely and timidly fascinated by each other's every word and expression). I felt sorry for him, because he was either going to be disappointed with the meal itself, or oblivious to the fresh japanese seafood delights he could be exposing her to just a short drive away. THIS IS NOT A PLACE TO TAKE YOUR LOVE INTEREST, unless she is impressed simply by the magnitude of a check and a mere patina of fine dining.
Our waitress was sweet, patient, and knowledgeable, and I couldn't help but wonder if she would recommend Umi to her family. I doubt it.
We concluded with a dessert that was simply delicious, playful and contemporary -- and weren't surprised to find that the desserts are actually part of the menu of their "sister-restaurant," Soba (which is a WONDERFUL place). It was the Soba Banana Split - an unusual and tantalizing update of the original (which, I believe, was originally invented in Pittsburgh).
Overall, the portions were small and unsatisfying, which would've been ok if the flavors were outstanding, but they were not. Not at all! I was shocked, and realized that a restaurant that should be credited with exposing the local eaters to fine Japanese cuisine years ago, has fallen from its lofty perch atop Pittsburgh's international dining choices. And fallen far.
So insular a chef can become when his cuisine is lauded for so long, that he can become ignorant of the ever-rising quality of his competition. I suggest Umi's chefs explore other restaurants and realize that they no longer have a monopoly on daily freshness, and that their creativity, like their salad, has become stale.
To people seeking high-quality sushi in the area, I must strongly recommend Ichiban (in Aspinwall), and before you question my credibility in recommending a restaurant nestled in a strip mall, think about what makes sushi wonderful. If unwavering freshness, playful inventiveness and sense of fun mixed with elegant presentation and even nice wine pairings, exactness in execution and preparation, thoughtful proportions as well as portions are qualities that not only enhance experience but even define Japanese cuisine, then Ichiban gets it right. Umi, I'm afraid, is way past its prime.
It's not that Umi is so bad. It's just not that good. Nothing special.
I can say I have tried several other places in Pittsburgh, trying to find a suitable place to satisfy my frequent cravings for fresh raw seafood with a characteristically Japanese seriousness in its execution and levity of presentation and flavor combinations. Ichiban is the place that is consistently able to capture this "essence" of Japanese cuisine. But there are others that are also better than Umi, which should no longer, by any means, be considered a standard.
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