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| - I was excited to try Black Chile this evening, having sorely missed the convenience of a full-service Mexican restaurant located within walking distance of home ever since the shuttering of Sam's Cafe (yes, it was ersatz Mexican, but a pleasant dining nook all the same). The restaurant's interior looks great, and though empty on a Sunday night, the bar and its impressive tequila collection promise a lively crowd and good buzz in the near future. (NB: Aside from washrooms, I believe the basement level of the restaurant may also hold a private dining room--a nice touch. There is the issue of a faint but pervasive restroom smell on that floor that needs to be addressed, though.)
Service was top-notch. Joe, our server, was attentive (quick with refills-always a plus, especially when I go nonalcoholic) and offered helpful suggestions and information when it came time to order. We also appreciated his thoughtfulness in bringing a bowl of water out for our dog, who was waiting patiently for us on the other side of the patio fence.
As for the main event, the food: I opted for the chicken enchiladas and the standard green poblano chile cream sauce it came with, having been swayed by Joe to choose it over the optional red pasillo. I typically avoid cream sauces like the plague, as I hate a strong dairy taste overpowering the other elements of a dish. The cream was used very judiciously and appropriately in this case, however, just enough to take the edge off any extreme heat from the chiles. The two enchiladas were elegantly presented in a small cast-iron casserole dish, which was quite filling for a Sunday night dinner. The standard entree sides, a small bowl of borracho beans and roasted corn-and-cilantro seasoned "sticky rice," were quite serviceable. (Note to the chef: a less complex but arguably tastier version of the rice can be found several blocks east of you at Revo.)
An aside: I think it wouldn't hurt to simply factor the cost of the chips and salsa into the menu price and offer them up for free. Charging the $1.99 just feels kind of stingy, given that the "homemade" aspect of the chips didn't necessarily shine through in texture or flavor, even to service the rather bland salsa.
While I was pleased that thigh meat was used for the shredded chicken in the enchiladas, I think that it could have used additional seasoning and texture (e.g., from roasting or grilling), as it was a bit too soft and steamy.
Overall, despite its attention to presentation and decor, I could still sense the Minnesotan origins of this restaurant concept creep through, in the hesitation or restraint to seasoning and heat that bordered on timidity. By shedding off the burden of that winter coat, Black Chile will have a chance to shine in its new southwestern surroundings.
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