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| - There has always been a special place in my heart for the classic diner serving up comfort food and nostalgia, visit after visit, plate after plate. Perhaps it's the friendly conversation over a hearty meal, or maybe it's got to do with grandma's vaulted recipes that some diner restaurants excel in executing perfectly. I feel as though Diner Deluxe has the classic feel of reminiscence down to a tee. Unfortunately - and I'm quite upset about it - an aspect of the dish I had for brunch at this little hole-in-the-wall left me quite unimpressed and I am unlikely to return for another visit.
Prior to walking in, I took in the sights of the neighbourhood, a hip stretch of Edmonton Trail worth exploring. The ambiance and décor of Diner Deluxe is totally retro, with faded vintage cigarette and soda ads and old rusted license plates on the walls, counter stools, and blue and red cafeteria chairs. There is a splendid patio out front for prime people watching. A server greeted me with a faint smile, but minimal enthusiasm. In fact, the service was consistently more mediocre as the dining experience progressed.
Having not eaten for twelve hours, I decided on the BBQ Pulled Pork Hash Skillet, which consists of a saucy pulled-pork-and-caramelized-onion medley and two poached eggs on a bed of hash browns, topped with a a scoop each of apple relish and grainy mustard. The menu hinted at toast being included with the order, but for a buck or two, I managed to substitute it for one of their house-made pancakes. The eggs were flawlessly poached; the oozing yolk creamy and hearty. The pulled pork was honorably average, not too juicy and with little happening in the way of flavour coming from the sauce. Nonetheless, it was edible and the meat was slow cooked. What I enjoyed was the addition of the relish and mustard, adding layers of texture and flavour with each bite - very satisfying! All that having been said, one ingredient ruined this entire meal and my experience at this quaint little diner - the potatoes. Half of my hash was comprised of day-olds. If you've never experienced it - and make no mistake, these were not just overcooked, or they'd have been brown - fried potatoes from yesterday taste like you're chewing on cardboard. It was absolutely disgusting! The mystery is that half of the hash was cooked fresh; how much do potatoes cost and why did this atrocity occur? This one simple, cheap ingredient destroyed an otherwise respectable brunch dish.
Leaving chunks of cardboard on the plate, I started on the mammoth of a pancake I ordered - I told you, I was starving. Don't judge me. Plus, no toast. Less carbs, something something. The hot cake, dusted with powdered sugar, tasted like it was made from scratch, not too fluffy but just right.
Diner Deluxe seems to have gained some notoriety in the Calgary dining scene seeing as how their horde of positive online reviews outweigh the negatives, but I'm not buying it. How many non-Yelpers have received those gross stale potatoes in the past and realized there are far better choices in this town? A patron's first impression is literally everything. And get that chick to be more personable or leave the service industry, stat! Three stars for ambiance, décor, and a well-executed half of a dish. I feel like that's even a tad generous...
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