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  • Chef David Ferguson's new concept is "roadhouse," according to a recent review in the Gazette. This means two things: you'll find a lot of items that fall under the "casual" (or, more appropriately, the "upscale casual") category, and you'll find a menu that's enamored with aspects of American regional cuisine, especially that of Texas and the American Southwest. But Ferguson first made a name for himself by fusing Mexican and French cuisine, and his most recent menu continues to display a curious predilection for "Frenchifying" (not to be confused with "Frenchifrying") just about everything. Thus, you'll find tender smoked brisket on the menu, but Ferguson serves it with a red wine and veal jus reduction. You'll also find a Southwestern "cassoulet" composed of romano and navy beans, duck, smoked lamb, hominy, and poblano, which holds the potential for teasing out the affinities between a French cassoulet and the bean- and meat-based stews of the Southwest, while cleverly playing on the fact that cassoulet is a classic of the south-west of France (get it?). But instead of taking the cassoulet and pushing it the direction of, say, New Mexico, Ferguson takes ingredients typical of New Mexican cuisine (hominy, poblano peppers) and pushes them in the direction of France. So much so, that his Southwestern cassoulet tastes a lot more like a French cassoulet than anything one would find in the American Southwest. The hominy was overwhelmed, the poblanos were barely present, and there were no traces of chili, or cumin, or any one of a number of other ingredients that might have provided a real taste of the Southwest. Frankly, this is a shame--there's no shortage of traditional French cassoulets in Montreal, while the cuisine of the American Southwest is virtually non-existent, and the dish holds a lot of potential.
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