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Remember when Sparrow opened and, even beyond being a hub for hip Mile Enders, it was Montreal's premier spot for quintessentially British brunches and lunches? That was London-born chef Marc Cohen's doing. He brought with him the most traditional meals from his homeland, and franco- and anglo-Montrealers alike were digging it. Only, Sparrow used sundown as an excuse to turn into a casual drinking spot and as a result did not have the resources to put together high-class dinner services. So, Cohen packed up his things, crossed the street, and opened Lawrence.
It's a little brighter, more of an open space, and the large windows overlooking Saint-Laurent and Fairmount letting sunlight or city lights in. And yes, a dinner service is now offered, with meals fancier and slightly subtler. Otherwise, it's not too different; there's still a simple chic and effortless informality, and there are still decadent English breakfasts and lunches.
What's Really Good?:
Listen. It's January in Montreal, and I'm writing about the most comforting of all cuisines, so almost everything on that menu seems really good. Forced to choose, two brunch meals stand out: the ham, Tomme and fried egg on toast, and the Kedgeree.
I know - what the heck is a Kedgeree. It is made of flaked fish, hard-boiled eggs, boiled rice and butter, often seasoned with parsley and curry powder. It is a hybrid of Indian and English cooking that originated in the UK after the colonization of India sometime in the nineteenth century. More importantly, when it's done right, it's delicious. And Lawrence does it right.
If your ideal Sunday brunch does not typically involve creatures of the sea (or curry powder), then move away from the Kedgeree and move towards Lawrence's best classic breakfast item - the ham, Tomme and fried egg on toast. The slightly melted, soft-tasting Tomme cheese is a killer addition to an otherwise rudimentary meal (who does ham and fried eggs better than the English, though?), and, topped with a light green salad, it strikes the perfect balance between those binge-brunches you crave when you're hungover and fine lunch cuisine.
If you're visiting the restaurant in the evening, let me make one suggestion: don't miss out on the pork chops. Oftentimes they are viewed as too plain to order, but believe me when I say that, at Lawrence, they're not. They're perfectly juicy and rosy and, paired with radicchio and apples, they don't taste anything like the dry pork chops your mother whipped up after picking you up from school.
You'll Wanna Know:
One of the major upgrades Cohen made when moving from Sparrow to Lawrence was finding a quality sommelier. Etheliya Hananova grew up working in her parents' restaurant from the age of eight onwards and developed her taste for wine and food through the years in Montreal and Brooklyn. Before joining Lawrence, she was one of the sommeliers at Le Club Chasse et Pêche, and she's just about as friendly and charming as they come.
But fellow brunch fanatics, there is no need to feel left out. On weekends, Lawrence borrows one of Montreal's finest baristas, Keaton Ritchie, from one of Montreal's most adored cafés, Café Myriade (which has a new location on Saint-Viateur, FYI). I'm sure coffee lovers will agree that a good barista is just as important as a quality sommelier. And at weekend brunch, probably even more important.
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