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| - For us first-time visitors to Pittsburgh, it didn't escape our notice that the city has received a bunch of national notices for its dining scene in the last few years. The chef here, Justin Severino, gets mentioned in almost of those pieces.
We chose Morcilla for a big birthday dinner for one of us (I'll leave it at that!), and the restaurant came through with flying colors for that occasion.
Severino is most renowned as a magician of cured meats, based on his original restaurant down the avenue, Cure. Not surprisingly, Morcilla's got an outstanding selection of charcuterie. It'd be easy get lost in this first section of the menu and have no appetite left over for anything else. (In fact, Morcilla offers "All of the Meats" for 50 bucks, and any big party should take advantage of that. Hell, maybe just you and you and a single guest should make a trip just for that purpose.) But we forced ourselves to make some tough cured-meat choices, and the namesake morcilla (basically a spicy pork salami) and Surryano Ham turned out to be great ones. (That Surryano, which is a steal here for $7, comes from the excellent Edwards Smokehouse in Tidewater Virginia, which had a huge fire not ago and tragically lost tons of product. Get it while you can.)
We also had the bacalao (codfish) en aceita, the "Who Cooks for You" salad (ground cherries, smoked goat cheese, candied pistachio, & peach-amontillado vinaigrette), and Spanish mackerel. All terrific as well.
We wanted a little bit more, so we asked for the Cordero en Moreno (that was lamb meatballs in very North African yogurt sauce) and a half dozen oysters (out of Marblehead, Mass.). More excellence.
The staff handled the birthday stuff with understated aplomb, and our main server did her job well all night.
Morcilla's got an attractive old-looking bar up front (even though the restaurant is almost brand new), and the back dining area has high vaulted ceilings and is comfortably and nicely appointed. Only minor complaint with the whole experience is that the noise levels got kind of oppressive as the early evening became night.
All in all, easily one of the best two or three meals we've had all year.
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