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| - An indulgent experience where the space is immaculate and the food is art. I've walked past L'Atelier and it's fancier sibling more than a handful of times in my Vegas visiting years, intimidated both by it's name and potential damage to my bank account. My recent visit to Vegas prompted to "go big", and see if the restaurant lived up to it's renown. Robuchon certainly did not disappoint.
Most of the dining is done via bar seating with view of the prep kitchen and shelves of fresh produce. The focus on aesthetics extends to the food, as each dish is meticulously composed, almost being too beautiful to eat. I ordered the five course prix fixe menu, composing of:
*AMUSE Foie gras parfait with port wine and parmesan
*L'OEUFF DE POULE Chicken egg « sunny side up » style with bohemian vegetables
*L'EPINARD Hot spinach velouté on a delicate nutmeg royale
*LE SAINT PIERRE John Dory Filet a la plancha with baby octupus and calamari
*LA HAMPE French style hanger steak with shallot and crunchy sweet gem
*LA FRAISE Strawberry compote with lime, tequila sorbet
Each dish, including the amuse, was a work of art, perfectly cooked and seasoned. The only dish that didn't thrill me was the side of the chef's signature mashed potatoes. While whipped to smooth, buttery consistency, it was delivered at a lukewarm temperature. I'm not sure if this was the intended temperature of consumption, or whether I was just hitting a wall four courses though, but it was a bit underwhelming. The hanger steak was cooked to a perfect medium rare, accompanied by an deliciously savory sauce. The strawberry compote was a light and refreshing end to this very satisfying meal.
The is one aspect of dining at L'Atelier that seems quite perplexing. For the bar seating, the dishes are served by the waiters over the counter from the kitchen side. Whether they are switching out your silverware or delivering your food, they are reaching over a space that spans their prep counter and your dining counter. It seems to be an awkward reach, and you can see the staff struggling to reach with every service. I think I noticed most of the diners at least making one comment on how far the reach was.
As more high end dining options are appearing and general dining prices are increasing in Las Vegas, L'Atelier de Robuchon still appears to a splurge, but perhaps the most reasonable and satisfying splurge in the city.
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