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| - I'm a bit embarrassed to admit that Savannah Red was actually an account of mine back when I used to sell wine, and I never actually knew what kind of food they served or what the inside of the restaurant even looked like. Since they were owned by the Marriott hotel that houses it, there wasn't much influence I could have over their wine list, and we already pretty much dominated it with some of our larger corporate profile wines. It's a shame really, because after dining there over the holidays I had a very good meal that would definitely warrant a second visit.
Although the hotel was a bustle with energy after a recently ended football game (Meineke Car Care Bowl, or whatever the hell it's called now), the restaurant itself was virtually dead for dinner service on a Saturday night. This did give me a better chance to take in the surroundings, and notice the ornate chandelier (http://www.flickr.com/photos/wedoitforlove/4385725507/), along with a beautiful but non-functioning water display, and plates and silverware which seemed entirely too old-fashioned Southern elegant than necessary, including captain's chairs which didn't quite mesh with the tables. On the plus side, a virtually empty dining room caused service to be very attentive, and the food came out without delay.
The chef decided to start out with an amuse bouche of crab stuffed pastry (http://www.flickr.com/photos/wedoitforlove/4386490332/) with a homemade remoulade sauce. It was interesting, because I honestly wasn't even expecting an amuse here, but it was a nice surprise. The remoulade was a bit weak (I tend to like a little more spice), but the crab was nice in texture and flavor. It didn't take me long after those 2 bites to dive right into the sweet cornbread biscuits, thanks to the very soft butter. The biscuits were delicious, and were it not for a huge food order coming, I could have easily downed a dozen right then.
The first real course of the night was a lobster "cobbler", prepared as an étouffée inside a phyllo tart (http://www.flickr.com/photos/wedoitforlove/4385726467/), with a side of saffron ice cream and topped with fresh chive. This was very close to my favorite dish of the night. The lobster flavor was fantastic, and although the saffron ice cream seemed strange at this point in the meal it really paired well with the strong flavors of the main component. The phyllo was perfectly flaky and taken as a whole bite just melts in your mouth. The next starter, braised beef short ribs served over gingerbread cookies (http://www.flickr.com/photos/wedoitforlove/4386491172/) was a little more disappointing, but still decent. The sweetness of the cookies was too much, and didn't mix well with the soy in the beef glaze, but at least the meat was extremely tender.
The soup course was next, and both options were frankly somewhat forgettable. The butternut squash soup (http://www.flickr.com/photos/wedoitforlove/4386491456/) was a bit bland, as it can often be, but usually chefs will do something the kick a little flavor in. Not so much here. But perhaps the biggest let down of the night was the pork belly stew (http://www.flickr.com/photos/wedoitforlove/4385727231/), which I had very high hopes for. It all became sort of a runny tomato mess, and the texture on the pork belly was very odd and somehow tough...almost like it had been in a freezer too long.
After an intermezzo of chilled citrus sorbet, which acted as a wonderful palate cleanser, the main courses got them back on the road to redemption, both delivering solid flavors. The Scottish salmon (http://www.flickr.com/photos/wedoitforlove/4385727849/) was a very large portion, and cooked perfectly, flaking apart very nicely. The one downside was a general lack of seasoning in the dish, but at least the fish seemed pretty fresh so those flavors were enough to carry it as a whole. The duo of duck (http://www.flickr.com/photos/wedoitforlove/4385727613/), while looking a bit sloppy, was easily the best dish of the night, and something worth returning to Savannah Red to taste again. The breast portion was seared nicely, and very juicy, and the sauce on top really helped bring out the flavors of the meat as well as adding a hint of sweetness. The confit part was huge, as I would prefer it to be, and just fell apart under the fork, a really well cooked piece of meat.
Since I've left Charlotte I'm a bit out of touch with the dining scene there, but it's nice to see good places like this still around, despite a very challenging location. Granted, most places would kill for the prime real estate downtown, but I have a feeling a lot of its presence is lost by the hotel towering above it, and a lobby that is completely distracting with all the other options. I love that they try to maintain some sense of Southern cuisine in their menu, and that every time I've checked the menu since dining there a year ago they are constantly updating it with new, fresh additions.
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