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  • Sometimes I think I would rather talk about circumcision or which is the best web browser or perhaps whether Deckard was a replicant than try to have a sane conversation about pizza. I don't know what it is about people that makes them lose all logic and diplomacy when it comes to pizza. Say you don't like New York-style pizzas, for example, like the way some people don't like charcoal grills or folk jazz but are still respectable citizens, and it's like the entire eastern seaboard will hop on a bus to your humble opinion on the internet and burn it for heresy. It's no better with Chicagoans, either. People have *strong* opinions about pizza that tend to manifest as The One True and Only Way. Me, I've discovered I can appreciate all styles. I thought I hated New York-style until I tried Grimaldi's. I found Chicago-style to be a hot mess until I made my own at home. Sicilian? Detroit? CPK? They all have their merits. Metro Pizza is after my own heart in this way in that they offer several different types of pizza on both their carryout and dine-in menus. Now we all can be happy! (And take that first step toward peace, which begins with admitting that more than one type of pizza exists.) I was most encouraged by their "Metro crust," a thick crust option that I hoped would take me back to, well, most of the pizza I had before moving to Las Vegas (land of the floppy and greasy slice... and that's okay... for other people). The first time we had Metro I closed my eyes in joy. Not perfect, but so much closer than most places. Finally! The second time, same deal, although the flaws (as I see them) seemed to interrupt my bliss more this time. The third time... um, what happened? (But edible.) The fourth time we threw most of two large pizzas away. (And people, I seldom walk away from any combination of bread and cheese.) Oh, Metro. I think everyone needs to try Metro Pizza. They are immensely popular, and if my friends are any indication, odds are you will be very pleased with what they do and how they do it. The staff at the Decatur location is extremely friendly. They usually offer us sodas while we wait for pick-up, so I feel like a big jerkface to criticize them now. But, I write the type of reviews I want to read, and when I'm considering pizza joints, I appreciate knowing whether I can expect a thick-crust pizza with good ingredients that isn't wet or greasy. My standard order is a cheese with mushrooms plus Metro Crust. Right away, the first time I noticed that most of the toppings were in the center of the pizza. I don't know why this happens, but I never encountered it until I moved to Las Vegas. Here I see it All. The. Time. I also determined that, dough-wise, I loved the outer third or so of the crust, but the middle was just too soggy for me. So, a little scooching of the toppings, and I had a good pizza, albeit with a strange, wet mucky circle of dough from the center left over. The cheese tasted bright (ugh, Food Network is rubbing off on me) and wasn't rubbery, and the mushrooms were hearty and not slimy. But, as I said, things have been downhill over the past four months. The crust became more and more undercooked, the toppings didn't taste as fresh plus they congealed more and more into the center, and everything took on a greasy feel. We're talking back-of-the-throat acid before the first slice is done. After the third time we said, you know, maybe we were wrong. It's just not our style after all. But the other day I had a craving for a thick crust, something the local Grimaldi's doesn't do, so back we went and, like I already described, it was so bad that we actually threw the pizzas away. Pizzas that I know so many other people would love. (Along with a batch of garlic knots that could've doubled as rocks should we have wanted to end the meal with some xeriscaping.) If I had Metro Pizza before moving to Las Vegas (after a lifetime in the midwest and south), I'd give it a two at best. (Again, with guilt for downrating such nice people.) But now that I know that this is (it seems) what pizza is *supposed* to be like for some people, I don't know what to do. Three stars, I guess, but it's really not "A-OK" with me.
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