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  • "El Pulgarcito" apparently means "little thumb," but more specifically "Tom Thumb." And "El Pulgarcito de America" refers to El Salvador, which is what this humble restaurant's food is mostly about. The wife and I live in Cincinnati, a metro that apparently has zero Salvadoran food. But I'm a fan of this cuisine, if not a very knowledgeable one, so I'll often jump at the chance to have some when on the road. Luckily, my brother, who lives in Charlotte, likes it, too, so off we went. El Pulgarcito is a rangy diner-style restaurant on Central Avenue, and it offers superb value for the money. A plate of three sizeable pupusas (all different) and a large plate of fried plantains (served with thin refried beans and sour cream) set me back less than ten bucks, and was solid, if unspectacular eating. (The pupusas were slightly mushy, and neither the best nor the worst I've had.) My brother had this giant whole fried fish that he said was quite good; that entree was only 12 dollars or so. The menu has a pretty large Mexican section in addition to the Salvadoran specialties. Most of the locals seemed to be having big bowls of soup, so that seems to be the way to go here. Service was efficient enough, even if the staff weren't exactly rays of sunshine on this evening.
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