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| - When esteemed chef Tory Miller announced the opening of his latest culinary installment about a year ago, locals knew the restaurant would be a hit. Regardless of the anticipated cuisine, the fact that Miller would be the brains behind the operation assured success from the start. Chef Miller has demonstrated his expertise as chef of the respected L'Etoile and Graze, both highly regarded locally and on a national scale. It was with this impressive background that Miller set off in the works of Sujeo. It's no wonder there's been so much buzz surrounding his latest work.
The locally-inspired menu features an assortment of egg rolls, spring rolls, and imperial rolls, all of which showcase fresh ingredients of grilled pork, shrimp, herbs, and various vegetables. These particular items serve as a few of the flavor-packed appetizers to the remaining rice, noodle, and ssäm dishes that make up the main portion of the menu.
Another popular option is Hot Pot, which consists of cooking meat and vegetables in a simmering pot of stock at the center of the table. The dish will prove a feast for two adventurous eaters, and with each subsequent visit this menu item will never bore considering the selection varies daily. Seeing as not many restaurants in Madison offer this interactive eating method, Sujeo raises the bar in terms of innovative dining.
As far as rice dishes, diners can expect everything from bibimbap and General Tso chicken livers, to a Singaporean chili crab and hearty mango curry. All of the items showcase the restaurant's emphasis on embracing the cuisines of multiple ethnicities and present twists on traditional dishes with the fusion of ingredients from various Asian-style cuisines.
The noodle entrees on the menu meld a multitude of cultures in a similar fashion. While each of these dishes are centered on noodles, there is an impressive range in the type of noodle offered. Some entrees feature whole-wheat noodles, while other dishes utilize rice vermicelli and wonton. The Dan Dan is composed of udon noodles with ground pork, spicy peanut sauce and Sichuan chili oil, while the Japchae features a combination of sweet potato glass noodles, marinated steak, bell peppers, bacon, spinach, mushrooms, sweet soy sauce, and sesame.
This last Japchae dish, which I was able to sample in my recent visit to Sujeo, was fascinating. As the Japchae plate arrived to the table, the server came bearing a long pair of kitchen shears, which he used to cut the long glass noodles into more manageable portions. He explained that the cooking method requires the noodles stay long, but when it comes to indulge in the dish, the noodles are easier to eat once cut to a smaller size. Overall, the dish was well balanced with sweet components from the peppers and sauce, as well as the more savory addition that the bacon and marinated steak contributed. My only complaint would be the scarcity of steak throughout this largely noodle based dish. If it's meat that you seek, then you best look elsewhere.
As a whole, Sujeo presents creative representations of classic Asian-style dishes. While the food does stray from traditional, the items are well executed and demonstrate Chef Miller's culinary ingenuity in a way that gives credibility to his wide acclaim.
I'll definitely be back to try the custard, which I sadly forgot they offered when I was there, as well as the curry entrees and spring rolls. nomnom
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