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| - I was vacationing in Toronto with a group of friends, and we chose Sidecar for our fancy vacation celebration dinner. One of my friends is a finicky eater, so Sidecar was in some ways a compromise choice. There was stuff on the menu that appealed to everyone.
And for a fancy dinner, Sidecar went the distance for us. The service was outstanding. When they were unable to accommodate our request to sit outside in their lovely backyard - even though we had made reservations - they brought us a round of cava to apologize, followed by a salmon tartare on crostini as an amuse bouche. It was a very kind touch, and it certainly made us feel special.
Likewise, the kitchen staff certainly seems to bring a great deal of care to their work. The pappardelle I ordered were clearly homemade, and the pasta was beautifully thin and delicate, and perfectly cooked. The carpaccio I ordered as an appetizer was equally beautiful.
However, for all the care that the kitchen brought to the food, most of us at the table agreed that it fell short of that fifth star, and the reason for that was flavor. Now, don't get me wrong, we had a very good dinner here. It's just that for a fancy restaurant with a fancy price tag, the food just didn't wow the way we'd hoped it would. While the papperdelle were indeed beautiful pasta, the sauce they came with - while rich with the umami flavors of mushroom and short rib - just seemed to be missing some flavor to balance it out and really make the dish sing. Likewise, the friend who ordered the ravioli thought the filling was rich but again fell just short of fantastic in flavor. The apple fritters we shared as a dessert were surprisingly heavy. For me, it was one almost-great dish after another, all night.
The finicky friend, however, thought his steak frites was perfect.
If I lived in Toronto, I'd definitely make a return trip to Sidecar and give them another chance to impress, especially if I'm with a less-adventuresome eater. Their menu did seem to strike a perfect compromise where another restaurant might have failed at that. I can easily imagine having gone to a place where I'm bowled over by the food, only to have the evening ruined by watching my friend sigh and make yukface all night. So for that reason, our trip to Sidecar was a success, and the four stars are well-earned.
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