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  • I think most cities and bigger towns have a place like this--an anachronistic throwback to days where beef wasn't "grass fed" and potatoes weren't "locally sourced." A place where food wasn't infused with "love," but instead was infused with salt. And grease. Lots and lots of grease. And lo, it was good. We've got a place like Zack's in Atlanta. No, I'm not talking the Varsity, though that would be a good guess. But I won't besmirch Zack's by comparing it to The Varsity. Instead, it reminds me of Zesto's, maker of the gut-busting Chubby Decker burger and milkshakes that will, indeed, get all the boys in the yard. Now to those not from Atlanta, please consider the comparison to Zesto's a compliment. So yes, I dug the retro vibe of the place, a vibe not manufactured but entirely earned by not changing a whit in 40 years. The food? It was fine. Honestly, it wasn't the BEST burger I've had. I mean, my first paragraph kind of said it all. But don't consider that an indictment. Sometimes a greasy old-fashioned burger is exactly what you may need. In this case, it definitely was.
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