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  • For reasons that surprise and depress me, Madison's Far West Side restaurant scene consists almost entirely of corporate/chain operations. For funkier and more imaginative options, one has to look elsewhere (although locally operated--and pricey-- Eno Vino is in the same strip mall as Biaggi's). But among the chain operations, Biaggi's is one of the best--a lively, generally bustling operation with a variety of reasonably good Italian-style menu options, Not the most imaginative, not the most intimate, but a generally well run and satisfying mildly upscale place for a nice meal with friends. In some ways, this is the Italian parallel to P.F. Chang's (see my review). Biaggi's has sustained some menu setbacks in recent months, with several of our more distinctive favorites disappearing from its menu offerings. Last night we discovered that its regionally unique espresso lamb porterhouse was gone. An early favorite, a pasta dish with smoked salmon and a vodka cream sauce, was an earlier casualty. The best of their bread offerings disappeared a few months back. I've spoken with the manager--a friendly and accommodating fellow--and these decisions seem to be made at the corporate level, with little flexibility for local tastes. That is too bad--a further homogenizing of menu options, with fewer distinctive items appealing to other than common denominator tastes. All that said, Biaggi's remains a tasty and pleasant option for a reasonably priced neighborhood meal. Reservations are recommended on busy nights (one can usually call ahead half an hour or an hour before desired meal time and avoid the worst of the lines). Bring earplugs and/or hearing aids--things have gotten quite noisy on busy nights.
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