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| - "Home! Home on the range!" When I hear that American folk song I usually think of sweating at the stovetop cooking. I'm not so "at home" on that range. That's when I gallop over to the Sierra Bonita Grill, the namesake of the historic hacienda. It is the first, largest--and oldest--American cattle ranch in Arizona, (and the nation) near Willcox. Whites, American Indians and Mexicans lived and worked side by side as equals. Billy the Kid worked there as a ranch hand. (It didn't work out.)
The classy and comfy Sierra Bonita Grill pays tribute to the history and hospitality of that venerable ranch 'n' range, offering a uniquely western menu with spicy influences from South of the Border. For 12 years they've been a North Central favorite. "We're not trendy or 'hipster.' We offer quality food at a good price," said owner Nate Hopper. 'Nuff said, pardner! Nate helped create the unique menu after a culinary immersion foray in Oaxaca, southern Mexico.
When the dinner bell rang, we ordered the piquant starter Hopper's Poppers. They serve up a sizzling cast iron platter of broiled, halved, mild jalapeños stuffed with a blend of four cheeses that's a rootin'-tootin' favorite. Eight for $14.
A chuck wagon fave is the Green Chile Mac 'n' Cheese with al dente penne pasta, green chiles, Cheddar and tangy Menonita cheeses all for a sawbuck. (That's $10.)
Sierra Bonita has tweaked their menu for summer, putting away some of the classic cold weather rations--like Cowboy Chili--in the back pantry 'til the next cold snap. You'll have your choice of other summer favorites, like the Pan-Seared Red Trout, presenting a generous, flaky, mild filet (no bones) with a seasoned crust you'll flip over. Mild, without any "fishiness," it's served with green beans, roasted peppers, baby spinach, tomatoes all sautéed in brown butter. There's plenty of vittles and well-worth the $23 price tag.
If you got a cattle driver's appetite, you'll be hankerin' for the Pork Osso Bucco. The Grand Canyon-sized shank is carefully braised and served with green chile mashed potatoes, roasted baby carrots, cipollini onions, zucchini, and doused with Hatch green chile sauce. You'll have plenty to chow down on for just $27.
The Buttermilk Chicken is comfort foo. This is the Number One best-selling item on the menu. Breaded, lightly fried and finished in the oven, it comes with Oaxacan chile mashed sweet potatoes, giving it a "Thanksgiving" kick, asparagus and cracked black pepper gravy. Tasty and traditional, sure, but try treating yourself to a few of the other incredible comestibles. $15 lunch/$25 dinner. They purchase locally when possible. All beef served is from Arizona.
Sierra Bonita offers more fine fare: choose from five different salads, or three kinds of soup, including Green Chile Pork Pozole. Six other entrées, lkike Stacked Enchiladas ($16) and Santa Cruz Pasta ($21) are enough to have us set up a wagon train and go back for more. Best of all, you get a full plate of rations that'll fill your belly without emptying your knapsack.
Sierra Bonita's saloon offers more than 19 Arizona wines as well as many Arizona craft beers. There are three private dining rooms downstairs that don't cost anything to book. Perfect for a special jamboree with kith and kinfolk.
Saddle up your cayuse, put on your petticoats, put away your pistols, y'all, and mosey on over to the Sierra Bonita Grill for a heapin' helpin' of their hospitality.
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