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  • I first went to Bearden's in 1962 when I played on their team in the Rocky River Little League. It was fantastic, and it seems like I've been there a jillion times ever since. Even after I left the Cleveland area for warmer climes, I always, always would stop by Bearden's when visiting my parents, still living in River. When I heard Bearden's was shutting down I was devastated, but thrilled when I learned it was to be reopened. Since then I've been back to town twice, making my traditional visit to the place each time. It's natural and inevitable that I compare the old Bearden's to the new Bearden's, and the latter comes up short, unfortunately. The new method of ordering at the counter creates a fast food vibe, big time. The waitresses, over the years, always had a lot of character and brought a lot of charm to the restaurant. That's gone. (And so much for creating jobs.) The Beardenburger still uses the same great cut of meat, and is value priced, but I they no longer put a pat of butter atop the burger, and the buns aren't lightly toasted, as they used to be. The famous onion rings are still great but the portion size was a bit chintzy. The menu has expanded notably. Perogies were put on the menu to pay homage to Cleveland's large population of folks of Slovak or Polish descent, I suppose, but this was a giant mistake, as their perogies, deep fried, were absolutely terrible. Eating one of these was the first time in fifty years of Bearden's dining that I has something that was bad. Check that, call it embarrassingly horrible. One great thing about the menu expansion was the addition of Birch Beer. Now that's a home run. The new turquoise upholstery is fine, but again lends to the fast food chain ambiance. Serving food in plastic baskets doesn't help the experience. Alas, it seems an institution since 1948 is now just another burger joint.
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