| rev:text
| - Full Review Blogged:
Focaccia and Italian White with Olive Oil and Balsamic: Present on the table mere minutes after we took our seats and still warm, presumably from the pizza oven, I personally preferred the semolina based white to the somewhat doughy focaccia which likely could have used a bit less olive oil in the dough itself (or at least a few more minutes in the oven.) Unable to separate the olive oil from the balsamic I cannot comment on the quality of either, but the blend was rather standard and unremarkable.
Crostini - avocado-bufala ricotta, speck & arugula, confit tomato: Detailed as crostini secondary to the use of toasted bread this presentation was more akin to bruscetta in texture as the bread still had a pleasant chew while the toppings sat in an ample, rustic balance of crunchy/smooth and salty/sweet with the slight funk of the ricotta and brine of the speck both coming through with aplomb.
Potato & Ricotta Gnocchi - butternut squash, pancetta, pine nuts, pickled pearl onions & arugula: Realizing it is always touch-and-go with pasta at a restaurant fancying itself a pizzeria I will simply note that if gnocchi is on a menu I almost invariably order it and in the case of Libretto this choice would prove most fortunate as the dish was the best savory of the meal. Beginning first with the dumplings - creamy to the point of literally melting in the mouth - and moving next to the deft juxtaposition of thick-cut savory pork, lightly acidic onions, and bitter sautéed arugula the dish was hefty but fresh and bucolic but balanced - a dish rooted in winter but looking forward to spring with flavors befitting both.
Duck Confit with Bosc pear, mozzarella, rosemary: The first of two pizzas and certainly the less traditional of the pair this pizza came with high expectations that were only half fulfilled. Starting with the crust, a slightly sweet and well leavened specimen with a bit of blister but plenty of chew I'd personally put Libretto's crusts in the upper quartile of the Neapolitan pies I've experienced in North America and without tomato or "wet" ingredients on this particular pizza the dough held up nicely to the ingredients both at the edge and the center. Moving next to the toppings, where this pie fell flat was actually in the pears - almost entirely flavorless and still crisp leading to an odd mouth-feel, particularly next to the intensely creamy cheese and supple, flavorful confit.
Ontario Prosciutto - tomato, basil, mozzarella: A vastly more successful pie to the duck, though not without flaws. Featuring a similar crust to the duck pizza, but with even more blistering and rise to the crust this Margherita was lightly graced with a sauce of milled tomato and supple prosciutto, both delicious and well balanced by creamy pools of mozzarella. Where the dish lacked, unfortunately, was in the basil which seemed to be added haphazardly prior to cooking leading to some bites with a disconcerting amount of charred vegetal flavor while others lacked any herbal nuance at all.
Libretto Tiramisu: Served in a mason jar, dusted with unsweetened cocoa, and a lovely balance of buttery cake soaked with espresso and a bit of rum juxtaposed with slightly sweet mascarpone. A well composed classic not suffering from pooling of the alcohol as so many other preparations do this was a great dessert - yet despite this fact, the least wowing of the three.
Posset al Limone - chamomile granite, citrus & meringue: This light and creamy presentation would prove to be a bit more panna cotta than posset, but leaving semantics aside it would also prove to be excellent. Featuring a base of cream, lemon liquor, and gelatin topped with icy floral notes, crunchy bites of meringue, and fresh slices of grapefruit, mandarin, and Meyer lemon the experience was complex and refreshing with a compelling mix of textures, flavors, and temperatures far exceeding the standard watery posset.
Chocolate-Amaretto Budino - Hazelnuts: Bread Pudding, Baba, and Budino - perhaps I just have a propensity for desserts beginning with the letter "B" but if any (or all) of these are on a menu there is a very good chance one (or all) will find their way to my table and in the case of Pizzeria Libretto there was a budino done right - no "cake" or gimmicks, just thick chocolate pudding imbued with notes of fruit and nuts plus an ample dusting of crushed candied hazelnuts adding both texture and sweetness. Served, like the tiramisu, in a mason jar this was rustic and rich - just the way it should be.
The Verdict: A hit and miss experience where the specialty (pizza) was outshined by the supporting staff (antipasti, pasta, and desserts) I cannot say I would rush back to Libretto for the pizza, but with a good location, good service, and excellent versions of two of my favorite foods - gnocchi and budino - I certainly wouldn't scoff at a return visit if I lived in the area, particularly as the pizza crusts show promise.
|
![[RDF Data]](/fct/images/sw-rdf-blue.png)
![[cxml]](/fct/images/cxml_doc.png)
![[csv]](/fct/images/csv_doc.png)
![[text]](/fct/images/ntriples_doc.png)
![[turtle]](/fct/images/n3turtle_doc.png)
![[ld+json]](/fct/images/jsonld_doc.png)
![[rdf+json]](/fct/images/json_doc.png)
![[rdf+xml]](/fct/images/xml_doc.png)
![[atom+xml]](/fct/images/atom_doc.png)
![[html]](/fct/images/html_doc.png)