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  • Living in a mid-sized American city doesn't prevent Madison foodies from enjoying culinary delights from around the world. The ethnic diversity of the restaurant choices here equals or trumps that of many larger cities. Caribbean food is no exception, but Cuba has been underrepresented until recently. While we will not anytime soon find ourselves alternating breaths of salty, tropical seaside air and Monte Cristos, we are fortunate to settle for sipping cafe Cubanos and munching on croquettes while overlooking Lake Monona from the Cardinal Bar. Carved into the former coat check area of this nightclub long known for its tropical tunes and dancing -- the music doesn't stop during Sunday brunch -- Cortadito Express offers a modest menu of Cuban choices. I ordered the Dirty Bird sandwich over my typical favorite, the Cubano. The pulled chicken was roasted to perfection, with the slaw providing a sweet, crunchy contrast and the spicy mayo completing a trifecta of textures and flavors. The bread was fresh and toasted just right. The meat croquettes are somehow crispy, yet they melt in your mouth with their cheesy potato filling. I had a bite of my wife's Cuban sandwich. The pork was seasoned just right with a perfect amount of yellow mustard on the same well-toasted bread. I'll order it next time but will skip the side baguette, which unlike the sandwich bread was dry and didn't seem fresh. I also look forward to trying the brunch versions of both sammies, which add an egg to them. Definitely a must if you're in a tropical mood. It hit the spot on this muggy day.
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