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| - One thing I've come to appreciate about localized restaurant chains like Walnut Grill is that they provide a reviewer like myself a chance to try various items on their menu by going to different franchises, thereby (hee hee) racking up more Yelp reviews. I kid. Partly.
For example, I'd been to Mount Lebanon's Walnut Grill a few times and had been meaning to try their burger, but honestly, I generally don't like to go back to the same places over and over again. So, when I learned that a Walnut Grill had recently opened in Bridgeville, it gave me an excuse to get Kay-- who'd just returned home from a cruise-- to take a ride over with me. After all, it was my birthday, and as per tradition, she was treating.
All I wanted for my natal night meal was a fantastic burger, and WG's Classic Cheeseburger was a wish from a blown-out candle come true. Living up to its name, the patty's luscious, sophisticated, well-seasoned, freshly ground chuck/steak blend (I tasted some sirloin and perhaps ribeye) had an ideal char on the exterior and an equally optimal mid-rare (as requested) interior. Lettuce and tomato were par for the course, but my choice of gouda (I seem to be going with that a lot of late) added a bit of twang and creamy mouthfeel. The almost artisanal bun was elegantly molded and had a texture and buttery flavor that was nearly akin to a croissant yet was surprisingly sturdy and absorbent. The fries that came with the burger were nearly flawless as well, approaching The Original Hot Dog Shop's crisp-meets-fluffy watermark but with a seasoning that vaguely smacked of Old Bay.
Our appetizer was a bit trendier as well as more gourmet and less conventional, WG's Chicken & Brie Quesadilla proving my theory that tapas are often the most interesting dishes on any given bill of fare. Drizzled with a tart raspberry puree (I'm thinking of a certain Prince ditty from the 80's right now), the insides of the floury tortilla barely contained that nuttiest, lardiest, lustiest of cheeses as it attempted to ooze itself all over the plate and onto our fingers. Halved grapes were a uniquely sweet, crunchy, juicy twist and complimented the perfectly supple grilled chicken breast. Sour cream reined in the cilantro as best it could but not without allowing that ornery, controversial herb to make its aromatic presence known. With some kettle chips, this would make for a nice, light picnic lunch on its own. A thimble of watery salsa was also included, but sadly, it was neglected entirely.
For dessert it was the dance-hard-or-die ethos of the aptly named Chocolate Decadence Cake. Calling it "cake" is a misnomer as far as I am concerned. Place a piece of kitchen tissue underneath it, and stick it in a candy store's glass case, 'cause this was a thwacking wedge of absolutely malicious fudge with a star of chocolate syrup marking the middle of the plate like a pentagram scrawled in the dirt during an occult ritual in a forest. A tuft of whipped cream and a cold, wet strawberry shivered on the sidelines acting as frightened bystanders to a spectacle of purely evil confection. Mildly smoky and thicker and more saccharine than a shoofly pie, the cotter of cocoa also possessed a subtle brimstone bitterness to it that haunted my palate for hours to come.
Suburbanites have welcomed Walnut Grill's New American swing into their community if the overflowing attendance during our visit was evidence of anything. Patrons laughed and wholesomely blew off work-week steam as they noshed on nimbly prepared food in environs that were at once homey, sports bar-ish, and discothèque-like without being exclusionary. Single, middle-aged people mingled with each other while families with small children enjoyed themselves comfortably and gaggles of twenty-something colleagues gossiped about office politics. A large group celebrating an anniversary dined across from us as a mother and her adult daughter were able to have a deep conversation over a serving of hummus. No matter which trail you take on the walk of life, Walnut Grill has a booth, stool, or table for you.
P.S. This Walnut Grill has live music and trivia nights. Check their Facebook page.
P.P.S. The service was exceptional in every way.
P.P.P.S. I believe Walnut Grill's menu still varies slightly depending on location, but I have not been to all of them yet.
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