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  • Ohh Umami, you have ruined me. I think it was Tom Collichio who said in an interview once (to paraphrase) "we don't sell food, we sell happiness." And if something makes the customer happy, do it. That's how I feel about Umami. No question the food is excellent, but that's just the start of the "experience" at Umami that makes it so special. Starting from the theater of entering through a nondescript side door, and climbing two narrow flights of steep steps, you are transported to a different environment. Your menu remains on the table, supporting the "order as you go" style encouraged on the first page of the menu. There's something subtle and wonderful about that. It makes the usual restaurant feel somehow industrial. Please complete your order from this list, and I will submit it for manufacture, and have it shipped to your table. You will then eat and leave. Umami is nothing like this. The open kitchen is more theater, and the precision of the chefs is great to watch. Have a sake, and enjoy some fresh barbecued skewers of smoky wonderfulness, order several, they're small and yummy. Then maybe put in an order of Okonomiyaki (a terrific Japanese savory pancake). More theater, as the Pancake arrives with shaved bonito flakes sprinkled over the top, which will gently dance in the heat as it rises from the pancake. Animated, delightful. The waitstaff is knowledgable, busy, never rushed, always attentive, never seeming to care if they turn the table (the opposite in fact). After the pancake, we ordered handrolls, which came with a little pipette of soy which you use to add drips of soy as you eat the savory cone of goodness (that's theater too, I guess, and it's fun and makes the eating better). And on the night we were there they even had a DJ spinning subterranean grooves and atmosphere, Subtle, and supportive of a place to go to spend time, rather than to just eat a meal. Others have been more eloquent about the food, and the food really is excellent, but what makes Umami a true gem is the experience. Umami serves happiness, and I'm grateful to have them so close by. We've been twice, and it was that good both times.
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