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  • Tacos are my favorite food, but instead of being a taco purist, I'm more like a tacoventurer. ("Tacoventurer" is someone who relishes exploring any and all iterations of tacos, you've not heard this? I made it up, that's why.) I always like it when a restaurant limits themselves to doing one thing and doing it really well. Because Smoke is essentially only tacos and a handful of Tex-Mex appetizers I was seriously excited for this meal. But I dunno man, I'm not feelin' it. The fact that the tortillas at Smoke are unorthodox--each taco comes wrapped in one thick flour tortilla, similar in density and texture to a gyro pita and with the heft of a petite burrito--was an interesting idea, but ultimately wasn't fully realized: the bread was bland, and chewy in a way that when eaten with the contents made everything mushy in your mouth. No crunch, no firmness for contrast. It was sort of like eating taco ice cream. (I know, taco ice cream sounds twisted but possibly delightful, right?) Although I understand they do offer corn tortillas, next time I'll try that. Okay, enough about bread texture, on to fillings. We tried four different tacos (ribs, pork, chicken apple bacon, and brisket) and all of them were forgettable. That's sad! That's so sad. A taco is basically just filling wrapped in an edible napkin, so you gotta make your filling sing! I don't even have a specific criticism of the seasoning it was so meek and unobtrusive. Tex-Mex is about bold flavors, and an interesting fusion of culinary classes and cultures, but taken as a whole this place felt like the chef was too apprehensive to unleash some Lone-Star-State-inspired fury on us. But we're tough, we can take it. Rant over. We also had the Frito pie (can I say? I really like a restaurant putting Frito pie on the menu). I've had Frito pie in people's houses smothered in canned chili and Kraft American cheese that was delicious (no lie); this Frito pie was not like that. This had a stewed tomato topping that was, alas, also lacking in any real kick or memorable flavor. I *was* charmed by their Mexcian Coke in glass bottles, but deeply regret not trying the horchata. But you gotta love a mom and pop outfit, and judging by some of the more creative offerings (BLTaco) on the menu, I think there could be good things in the future. They just need mas fuego.
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