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  • Does Madison deserve a restaurant the caliber of Cilantro? If so, why is this foray by Chicago-based Mexican-maven Rick Bayless in such a generic, nondescript part of the city? Given the ultra-fresh, predominantly vegetarian menu and its contemporary but not trendy vibe, surely this place belongs downtown off the square, not across from a high school in a mini strip mall. Apart from the appetizer, we ordered nothing but specials, so I can't comment on the regular menu fare (though I was here once before and had the enchiladas with mole verde which were excellent). We started with the Seviche de Pescado, a cilantro-infused salsa with whitefish that was so fresh-tasting I was looking for the boat that caught the fish! I ordered the Cochinita special: pulled pork shoulder with pickled onions, black beans, and a lip-burning jabaneros sauce. It came with only two tortillas to build tacos with, which seemed insufficient given the amount of meat on the plate. Pork was a little dry, but very tender and perfectly seasoned. And having had "true" jabaneros in Mexico, I must say this was not your Midwestern, watered-down version of the fire sauce, it was the real thing (IOW, apply sparingly). Kristine had Salmon En Mole, essentially the aforementioned enchiladas but made with baked salmon . . . very yummy. The only thing keeping Cilantro from five stars was the level of service, primary from the kitchen. They were clearly running behind, though the dining room didn't seem overly busy. Appetizer and entrees all arrived a little later than we expected. And we got the wrong bill, though the waitress effectively corrected it while still accurately applying our Groupon. But it could have been worse . . . the two-top seated next to us had not yet received their entrees by the time we left, and they were seated first! Better luck next time (yes, there will be a next time) . . .
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