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| - This four-star rating for Mario Batali's experiment in a warehouse corridor is very much a comparative thing. The hours suck. The space is small and cramped. The prices make Whole Foods look budget-conscious.The crowd can be a little too "broadcasting in hipster 3D" for my wary comfort. But? But? I can't wait to go back.
At first, we sort of hung back, put off by the throng of people crammed in small hallway, some seeming to be more interested in creating little tete-a-tete tableaux with their handbag dogs and loaded strollers than in actually shopping. I didn't think we would last long.
However, things soon cleared out a bit (this was 30 minutes before closing), and we were able to look over the merchandise properly without feeling like it was a Disneyland queue in July. No cheese (other than mozzarella) or truffles, as others recent reviewers have commented, but we did score some honey from Pahrump ($12/pint plus a free copy of the Constitution), Pink Pearl and Honeycrisp apples ($4 and $2.50/lb, respectively), a bar of lavender and mint soap made with goat's milk ($5), and a few bell peppers on a whim. (I don't remember what they cost because my husband got them while I was looking for more exotic stuff. Capsicum? P'shaw! Show me another funny-shaped carrot!)
I have only been to one other farmer's market in Las Vegas. It was a few years ago in downtown Henderson, and the "market" was really more like a few arts and crafts stalls with the odd bag of apples. So, I was really glad to see the variety of produce at this one, despite its shortcomings. There must have been seven or eight kinds of onion, not just "white, red, or yellow?"
Everything looked yummy, and of course it was great to see all of the natural colours and shapes, not the cookie-cutter lumps of shiny, oversaturated hues you get in the average grocery store. .
One mistake I made, though, was not bringing my own bag, which meant I had the soap in my pocket and the honey under my arm until we got purchased some produce. (Even then, the honey was heavy for plastic, and I didn't want the fragrant soap with the food.) They do sell canvas bags for $5, but that was a little high for me. We have too many tote bags at home to justify getting a souvenir that's 400% more expensive than at other grocery stores. I'd rather support the market by supporting the vendors.
When we left, we were pleased to have done something new, but I don't think either of us was burning to return. Like I said, it's very small, and the hours are nearly impossible. Best to sigh for what could have been and move on, right?
When we got home and sampled the honey, we had to admit it was pretty yummy, but you can get local honey in other places. The soap was nice enough, but again, not impossible to find in more convenient ways.
The Pink Pearl apple (we shared one) was beautiful when cut open and enjoyable to eat. I don't know why the seller described it as "sweet, not tart" - ours was definitely more tart than sweet. (Luckily, we both like tart apples.) The Honeycrisps, though, were a huge mistake. I'd overheard someone in the crowd say they were the best apples she'd had in her life, and with a name like Honeycrisp I thought we'd be in for a treat, but these were almost as mealy as a Red Delicious. Each bite did have a very short spike of flavour, but it quickly faded into empty texture and the interminable chewing, chewing, chewing, until finally swallowing. Oh well.
And the peppers? My husband made a paneer tikka masala with them.
Oh-Em-Gee, as the kids say. Amazing! I have never eaten anything where the bell pepper is the star of the dish and have that be a good thing. This was a bold vision of what bell peppers should be. For 40 years I thought bell peppers existed for their snappy texture, pretty colours, and light taste, just a little something to snazz up a salad or sandwich. Even the organic ones we sometimes get at the store tasted like this. (Which is why it's been the one thing where I hesitate to buy organic.) And by "tasted like this," I mean "tasted like something that I went my whole life thinking was good and yummy, but now..." The taste was so full, mellow, and heavenly. That which has been tasted cannot be untasted - how will we ever buy grocery store capsicums again?! I guess we'll just have to be bell pepper-free until November, assuming Molto Vegas is open Veterans Day. Stupid elevated standards!
Those used to mongo farmers markets (Hi, Californians!) will probably be disappointed, and as I said, I haven't checked out the other local FMs for a few years, so maybe basing the four star rating on what else is available is unfair. Still, however tiny, however trendy, the vendors are extremely friendly and the selection is interesting enough that everyone should visit at least once. (Just don't forget your bag!)
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