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  • On arrival at the Golden Steer, you may question yourself. The exterior is sketchy, it seems as if you are far from the glamorous Strip, and nearby Circus Circus looms, questioning your decision with its white pillars of 1970's hotel blocks. You walk in and things still don't seem right at the bar. Your barender is distant, demanding; you can't transfer to your table. It seems this is awkward. However, you steel yourself, saying, "I made the right call. The fancy overpriced places on the Strip have nothing on here, this is Old Vegas, and Frank was right. If they were trading on name alone, the Steer would be gone. I have faith." And you would be right. As you're led into the main dining room with your date -- or, as with me, my cousin -- you would be wholly validated. The world opens, angels sing, tuxedoed waiters do their thing, and all is right in an onomatopoeic universe where quality is rare and the Steak is too, capital 's' intended. Enjoy it. Do not question your decision. From the moment you set down in your red vinyl banquette, your waiter treats you as if it is 1958 and the Steer just opened. Charm and discipline exude in equal measure as the oiled wood and red banquettes simultaneously place you on display for all to see and sequester your conversation in privacy unheard of in the modern era. It's a lovely experience. If you're an old-school aficionado of the steakhouse as I am, you should convince your partner to order one of the most difficult of "old cuts" of steak to find -- Chateaubriand for two. This extra-thick cut of the tenderloin is sliced tableside and accompanied by wonderfully crisp-tender carrots, asparagus, and broccoli with Bearnaise and Hollandaise sauces that put the 50's to shame. The vegetables and sauces were excellent and worth the wait. The steak was out of this world good, perfect doneness and a complete delight. My cousin and I opted to add a twice-baked potato with each of us having half. It was a good decision, but nothing special. We skipped dessert as we were quite full but enjoyed our experience immensely. As we were there early in the evening, our waiter guided my cousin around to some of the named tables and pointed out how they used to enjoy their orders and experiences. She and I sat at Oscar Goodman's table, which was fitting for our evening, and enjoyed the history and charm of the staff immensely. I wish more places like this existed in the world; but if they did, they wouldn't be as special, would they? Thank you, and I will certainly be back when in town. Cheers!
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