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| - Atlas is Doug Penfold's (Cava, Chabrol) newest restaurant that's a culinary ode to his travels through Morocco. It was appropriately named after the 2,500 kilometre mountain range that stretches through Morocco, Algeria and Tunisia. The menu showcases the country's regional diversity with everything from traditional tagines to keftas.
Penfold must have a penchant for small spaces, because Atlas, like Cava and Chabrol, is tucked away in tiny space off of Dupont Street, completely unmarked. I second guessed myself before entering as I thought I was interrupting a private soirée. Walking in felt very welcoming--as if I was opening the door to a friend's house. The high-ceiling space was bright and minimalist with decorative wood paneling and light fixtures accenting the room in all the right places. Wine bottles stretched up to the ceiling behind the bar and doubled as an interesting art installation.
After a brief but exceptionally warm greeting from our server, Jerry, my guest and I agreed that he was made for this job. He was a born storyteller. He walked us through the menu as if we were guests in his home, sharing the details of how Penfold created each dish--to the point where my mouth was watering. He explained that the roasted peppers and aubergines were charcoal grilled on an open flame out back. When my guest and I had our first bites of the eggplant zaalouk--a room-temperature dip made of eggplants, tomatoes, herbs and spices--we could taste the love that was poured into its creation. Jerry's storytelling compensated for the subpar food, minus a few exceptions.
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