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  • For many years, I have found the restaurants on (and near) Walnut to be somewhat disappointing. Some are just plain bad, but even the ones that serve good food tend to be conventional and perhaps play it "too safe." Happily Acorn is an exception. I sampled the pork belly and the fiddlehead fern -- both small plates, but the portions are sufficient for a light dinner. The pork belly dish presents a good balance of taste and texture. The date brings out the sweetness; the crunchy pickled veggies serve as a counter point to the luscious fatty meat. The fiddlehead dish is served shakshuka style, in a cast iron pan. It was very satisfying, with the egg yoke still soft and runny, and the salsa verde offering a mild hint of heat; I'm not usually a huge dill fan, but here, the herb is used judiciously and is not overwhelming; it harmonizes the entire dish well. I also tried the shortcake dessert, expecting a conventional mess of strawberries and cream over biscuits. Happily, Acorn offers a more sophisticated rendition, with Italian merengue, goat cheese ice cream, caramelized peaches, and some freeze-dried strawberry accents. It avoids all the usual pitfalls of a bad strawberry shortcake: it is not cloyingly sweet -- there seems to be some salt in either the crushed nuts or in the ice cream (almost a little too much); it is not too dry; and it's not one-dimensional. The service was fine. I showed up to dinner alone and without reservation. They seated me right away at a high top by the window; the servers were attentive and did not rush me. I do think there is a bit of an incongruity about this restaurant -- the vibe of the place is more of a casual bar and grill, like other nearby establishments, but the food and the price is more upscaled. If I just wanted to grab a quick bite to eat while taking a break from shopping, this place would not fit the bill; but then, there are already lots of other outlets for that kind of dining. I'm glad that an inventive restaurant like Acorn has joined the Walnut St. neighborhood.
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