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| - DOWNTOWN GEM.
This restaurant is primed for launch...but still on the pad. The portions are perfect leaving you with no guilt for eating all or no guilt in stopping half way. It is set up as a social place where friendly conversation is buzzing...and you can actually hear each other (see my rants about The Montauk and Eggstacy). Reasonably priced, good attention to flavors, perfect breakfast beverages. But, the menu selection is thin and the decor is just not trying hard enough.
Melrose (essentially 7th Avenue between Indian School and Camel Back) is the next downtown Phoenix hipster infill area. Phoenix has done a terrible job of slowing urban sprawl and reclaiming the core but the Melrose area is begging to be big, even if this is a late-to-party concept compared to other major cities. Melrose has great access to light rail, huge lots with parking and an already established retro set of furniture stores to set the mood. If the Melrose Kitchen gets you down to see the area, that's a bonus.
Our party was greeted with a very friendly staff. Just parading into the restaurant, you get to tour the other tables' fare and it all looks inviting and delicious. As we traditionally do at new-to-us restaurants, we ordered a smattering of recommended dishes and one that just sounds good.
The HUEVOS RANCHEROS was recommended...and seconded by surrounding patrons. It deserves the praise. A very spicy and flavor-rich red ranchero sauce topped perfectly executed eggs and non-soggy corn tortilla. The secret star on the plate was the hash browns that were perfectly seasoned, scattered with nests of crispy bites and pleasantly not greasy.
The BUTTERMILK PANCAKES & BANANA/ALMOND PANCAKES were light and deep with buttermilk scent. They were served hot and fluffy. It is hard to brag about pancakes because it's hard to mess them up but this place manages to execute perfectly, thus making them notable.
My favorites were any and every bite with their house-made sausage gravy. The BISCUITS & GRAVEY I saw at other tables and noted nothing but happy faces. I personally opted for the COUNTRY FRIED STEAK with hash browns and a pouched egg. The steak was handled expertly, perfectly pounded free of the tough sections and then battered with a savory spice. Dipped into the egg yolk as recommended by our waitress made every bite better than the next.
The surprise beyond the meals was the drink. The coffee is nutty, rich and hot and the milk-based smoothies (they also offer soy milk, almond milk and OJ based) tasted like an old fashioned mall rat Orange Julius, mmmmmmmmm! Just eating breakfast today brought back flavor-based happy memories of arcades and movie hopping.
Critiques? There are a few but all could be remedied in a single day. The decor is off to a good start with nostalgic old-timey posters but the white painted bead board and ceiling lattice are reminiscent of restaurants opened by 1st generation immigrants struggling to stay afloat because the extended family is the only customer base. This is a hip area so the decor should catch up. I loved that every plate in the joint is different. They should carry that shabby sheik feel onto the flat ware, glasses, chairs and tables. Up the lighting with a really eye-catching central light fixture made of anything repurposed. Remove the distractions of the walls in favor or some reclaimed pallet wood and those great posters. Lastly, build on the menu. The base is strong so create a few more offerings upon that spectacular ranchero sauce and sausage gravy. How about a House smothered burrito and chicken fries with waffle bites? Add a few GF options and highlight vegan fare and the hipsters too will wanna eat here.
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