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| - This joint has some of the most brilliant dishes you'll find in the downtown area. It also wins the dubious award for very-best-food-in-the-very-worst-location. I mean the Eureka Casino is a wretched old haunt with decades of stale smoke and failed dreams layered into its sad old casino floor. Hold your breath and walk straight into the restaurant, where the Fat Choy gang has done a fine job creating a fun, retro vibe. Indeed, the charm of the place is its comfy throw-back appeal. The menu is straight up comfort food--some of it Asian (baos, dumplings, noodles), some of it not even close (burgers, grilled cheese). I love that there's no attempt to "fuse" the two together or come up with a clever concept for the coexistence of east and west dishes. The menu is simply a list of wonderfully soulful and homey dishes, end of story. What matters most, of course, is the execution, and Fat Choy gets it right. The pork belly bao is perfection, a brilliant combination of fluffy steamed bun, succulent pork, crispy skin, and a nice bit of tart mustard gremolata. Whoever knows knows that whoever put that together knew what they were doing, with all the parts working together to create a mouth bomb of tastes and textures--soft, luscious, crispy, and bright. The duck in the duck rice has been confit'ed to a melting buttery softness. The short rib grilled cheese may be the absolute ultimate in stoner comfort food. You could fall asleep in that thing and never wake up. I haven't tried everything yet, but everything I have tried has been spot on. I just wrote a review of "eat," where I complained that it over-promises and under-delivers. Fat Choy under-promises and over-delivers! This is unpretentious food prepared with love and passion, and so it needs to be celebrated not just for that reason but because precious few places achieve this level of integrity. The wait staff are always personable and attentive, I should add. I can't think of a more welcoming restaurant, which makes it odd that its located in such an unwelcoming building. Get thee to Fat Choy!
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