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| - First, a confession.
I lost my raw, fishy virginity at Sushi Garden.
I was working a slavish retail job a few blocks North. Traditionally, managers and staff would unwind after a rough shift by spending their paycheques at the bar next door. One day, one of the managers decided we should try something different. So we did. I was nervous, but excited. To that point I'd had a bit of a reputation for being pretty reserved (I still do, to be honest), so my colleagues were surprised when I not only joined them at the table, but made it through an impressive away of hacked-up sea creatures. I survived the surf clam and octopus (although the latter is still not one of my favourites), but tapped out at the thought of eel.
Almost fifteen years later, I find myself in the same spot for a pair of visits. One rates a solid four stars, the other a lowly two. So we'll split the difference.
Dinner begins with a steaming mug of green tea. In lieu of a proper menu, we have the take-out version spread at our place, by the paper-wrapped disposable chopsticks and napkins. Good news: prices seem frozen in time. Better news: they deliver.
We're going away the next day, so we agree to err on the simple side. We split an order of California rolls, and a shrimp tempura dinner each. The rolls are fine; well-stuffed and tightly-wrapped. Entry-level sushi, but just what the doctor ordered. Tempura is fab; precise slices of veggies ride alongside four large shrimp, all battered and fried to perfection.
The second visit took place on a Monday. Let's just say Anthony Bourdain was right about when to order fish at restaurants. Slices of tuna draped limply on a roll were generously cut, but tired grey rather than vibrant red. It's a (bad) sign of things to come when I catch the sushi chef skeptically sniffing shellfish out of the corner of my eye. We all feel a bit gamy after this meal.
Pork Katsu is tough and gristly with or without egg; the dish is more rice than protein. Chicken teriyaki looks fine; a mound of white meat and vegetables, glazed rather than glooped with sauce. Too bad the bird is stringy and difficult to chew.
I've visited many sushi spots since that initial experience, and devoured exotic species in exquisite preparations. It was a long time between visits, and the Sushi Garden menu now seems decidedly conservative. It may still be worth a visit the next time I crave basic Japanese food and don't want to pay an arm and a leg for it. After all, you never forget your first time.
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