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| - We went for an early Saturday night dinner, drawn in by new fine dining in the area (which is limited) and the promise of local farm to table style. We are huge fans of many local farm efforts, which can be sampled at the Common Ground Co-op and the Market at the Square on Saturdays at Lincoln Square Mall -- and now, Big Grove Tavern.
First, the food, from a foodie perspective: Fresh product, well selected and well cared for. The flavors of the natural food are highlighted. The preparation is often minimally invasive. The technique is classic French. The flavor profile is quiet.
My partner and I both wished for something a touch bolder. For example, the deviled eggs, a pre-starter, have yolks mixed with peas. We would suggest adding an acid note, perhaps a pickle.
It was nice that they brought out flavored popcorn as a freebie with our drinks -- a feature at BGT. The flavor of the night was white truffle oil -- and you could taste the oil. That was a real win.
For starters, my partner had the chili and cornbread, and I had the chicken liver pate with pickled onions and stewed rhubarb. I think mine was better -- really delicious, with rich, deeply flavorful pate contrasted against the rhubarb, which gave the bite the sweet and sour it needed to cut through. The farmstyle, whole grain bread had a wonderful crunch. The cornbread was a bit too refined -- it needed more crust and less cake, more corn flavor and less cafe baked-good sweetness. The chili was savory, but mild--no real taste of chilis.
The entree and dessert courses were both very good, especially dessert. My partner had the short ribs, which were beautifully medium rare -- not a hint over or under. I had the roast chicken with dumplings, which was amazingly good. Crisp skin, moist and flavorful meat, with a delicious herb broth under. Three dumplings that tasted like a delicate stuffing and had a satisfying bite. Slices of asparagus that also had a nice bite and a lovely green flavor still -- not at all cooked out. The portions seemed just right -- not too much and not too little.
For dessert, my partner had the rhubarb crisp and i had the chocolate pot de creme. Both were really superb: refined, flavorful, rich, balanced. Nothing fussy -- just satisfaction in every bite, with very good coffee on the side (they use a medium blend from the Columbia Street Roastery -- a fine choice).
The food is not bold. Or experimental. Or imaginative. But it is good, very good -- much better, I thought, in terms of technique than Carmon's Bistro.
It's clear from the limited but well selected menu that the chef behind it is attempting to appeal to middlebrow Midwestern tastes, but doing it in such a quality way that I found it kind rather than condescending. People who don't necessarily like a chi-chi dining experience will enjoy the food, and those who do like fine dining will think it is predictable in its selections but well done nonetheless.
Second, the decor and atmosphere: I generally like the blend of industrial and contemporary tavern that the interior designer seems to have been going for, although the dark colors dominate a little too much, despite the effort to add bits of fun in the lighting options.
BGT has a chic, young vibe -- somewhere between casual and serious. Dark gray walls with a black drop tile ceiling, black wire-cage pendant lamps with industrial bulbs of different shapes (reminds me of the recent Restoration Hardware line), bleached branch chandeliers over the bar area, outdoor party-lights with clear exposed globe bulbs interlaced with raw blond planks (one off note: the planks have lumber-yard stamps, which may be a bit too low-end for what they were going for), fairly inexpensive light-wood grain tables and nicely selected dark chairs--if a bit flimsy--and booth upholstery. I hope that over time BGT will invest in some better art pieces, and ones that bring more interest and warmth to the interior. There's seating outside too, if you're a smoker or don't mind getting it second hand.
Third, cost: Yes, yes, it's on the expensive side. BGT is fine dining, not family dining. I won't be eating here every night either. Of course, any diner can make the meal more affordable by just sticking with an entree, rather than getting the whole shebang -- I'd guess for dinner that this would run you $20-25 tops. But if you have a deeper pocket that night, the whole shebang here could run you $100 with tip for two -- and you still won't feel cheated. The value is here, given the quality of experience.
Fourth, service: BGT has a young, eager service staff. They took good care of us, and every other table I could see. From beginning to end, we enjoyed our time here.
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