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| - My wife and I had the privilege of experiencing Graft for the first time on Saturday. From the moment we walked through the door (loved the door handle, by the way) to the impeccable service to the incomparable food... I don't know how the evening could have been any better.
The ambiance is hard to define. The bar and the artwork are modern but the tables, booths and seats reminded me of Grandma's kitchen. I was delighted to get a partial view of the chefs at work. The decor exudes class, right down to the restrooms.
The service was outstanding. Accommodating and attentive without being uncomfortable or interrupting. As I ordered a glass of whiskey, I noticed the waiter at the bar check my rocks glass for any thumb prints or marks. As the night went on, I realized the waitstaff did this for all the glassware. Our waiter then took the time to place the single glass of whiskey on the serving tray and bring it to our table. It was just a single example of the attention to detail that goes into this dining experience.
We started with a braised beef tortellini with a mushroom broth that was on special. At first glance of the menu, one may mistake the offerings to be boring. The menu reads simple but upon closer inspection, the cuisine starts to take a more intriguing turn. After the tortellini special, we went with the brussels sprouts served with candied pumpkin seeds and a balsamic reduction and the roasted beets topped with ricotta and a lemon vinaigrette. The candied pumpkin seeds were a delightful counterpoint to the perfectly cooked sprouts. And the lemon vinaigrette provided a much-needed juxtaposition to the naturally sweet red and gold beets.
Next was the Graft mac & cheese followed by the scallops. The "mac & cheese" is an incredibly tender spaetzle with delicate cheese sauce. It was not rubbery... it was not gummy... it was unlike any other mac & cheese I have ever had. The scallops served with fennel and acorn squash were remarkable. I have never been able to get the sear like that on scallops. The sear was strong, cooking the whole scallop from only one side. I am not a huge fan of fennel, but the combination in this case was precise, accompanying the extraordinarily fresh scallops.
We finished up the meal with pork belly and the hangar steak. The pork belly was tender on the inside with a crispy exterior. Pickled mustard seeds cut through the richness of the pork belly. It may have been my favorite dish of the night. The hangar steak was delicious with perfect seasoning and cooked to a delicate medium rare.
As we were celebrating a special occasion, the evening was capped off with flourless chocolate cake served with whipped cream and raspberries accompanied by cups of coffee. The perfect ending to an astounding dining experience.
Graft gets it right, meeting expectations and paying special attention to the subtle nuances, making for something truly exceptional. The plates are constructed masterfully; everything is placed with a purpose. The edges are wiped clean to guarantee full attention is given to the food. New flatware is presented between courses. Your napkin is folded for you upon returning from the restroom. This is all accomplished while cultivating a comfortable ambiance. It's a classy dining establishment, but I did not feel awkward wearing jeans. We'll definitely be back. Looking forward to trying some of the other items like the tartare, the cod fritters, the rillete, or the shrimp and grits that came on recommendation... or whatever else the menu has to offer. With a place like this, its a pretty safe bet that everything is going to be delicious.
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