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  • Since first pointing my pen at the Toronto food scene a year and a half ago I've more than once been asked "So, you like meat. Have you tried Cowbell?" Well, I have now. Though I don't see what all the fuss was about. OK, I did get a bit of a warm, fuzzy feeling when I heard that Cowbell emphasizes local, organic livestock with liberal arts degrees and first-rate grammar, but at the end of a meal it's not the cow's pedigree I'm concerned about so much as what's been done with Bessie since her life story came to its abrupt end at the abattoir. I started with a smoked pork hock and sweetbread terrine, and found the split pea mustard that accompanied it to be the most exciting part of the dish. Perhaps I was expecting more flavour than one should ask from the humble thyroid. Things got only marginally better with my main - red deer hip, braised kale and a venison empanada. The deer was cooked and presented beautifully, showcasing the meat's bright red colour with thick-cut, medium-rare pieces stacked all the way down the right side of my plate. The meat was delicate, flavourful and oh-so-juicy but, disappointingly, over-salted even for my taste. The kale was, I think braised in the venison juices but turned out bitter and left me begrudging the fact that I could have done a better job of it myself. To complete the triad of mediocrity that was my main, the venison empanada tasted like a spring roll. The filling was shredded venison, and might have done better had it been served on a soft tortilla or maybe some Melba rounds. My companion was quite happy with her burger. The fries that accompanied it were fantastic and the thick, smoky beef rashers that topped the burger were a neat spin. For $160 (including booze, tax and tip) I expect more. While my date enjoyed her meal, I left feeling let down. It didn't help that our server was borderline MIA - she was the only one working, and by the end of the meal even settling our bill became an exercise in patience.
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