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| - Ursa is a distinctive experience. It's not like other restaurants where the point is to chose some attractive items from the menu, enjoy them, and socialize with your friends (though of course you could, in fact , do just that. but you might miss the point). The Sharkey brothers, one front of house, the other in the kitchen, have something very cerebral going on: it's a food project and they want you to join with them in pushing some boundaries. For instance: both times I have dined there the house made tofu starter has been pretty far out there, the first time macha tofu, the second time served with extraordinary sauces and condiments. The first time silky as could be, almost a dessert in texture; the second time nice and firm. Or take the crickets -- that's right crickets, the insects. They are dried and ground into flour, which went into the cavatelli in last night's pheasant consomme. High protein. Part of a project that might alleviate hunger and malnutrition in some parts of the world. If you have the chance to talk to Lucas Sharkey about this, you will realize that the brothers are driven and are very focused in ways that will surprise you. Another example: both meals I've enjoyed at Ursa have ended with the (again house-made) probiotic burrata. Done differently each time, but done very very well. Last night with smoked apple jam. I hasten to add at this point that the other standout sweet last night was a spectacular combination of chocolates and dolce de leche. Mains are a bit more traditional, but there are some interesting deconstructive themes that run through the ever-changing short menu. A month ago, there was a pig five ways (or was it four?), small bits of different cuts with interesting sauces/condiments and arrangements. Lat night a very nice guinea fowl with the extremely moist white meat also in a boudin blanc, as well as perfectly poached Atlantic lobster (claw) with a kaffir lime broth, and another member of our party had lamb cooked sous vide (thirty hours!), yet with the top still beautifully crisped, the flesh almost like butter in its tenderness. There are some misses, but this is food that demands your attention and your thought. The wine list is spectacular and modestly priced (Lodi Balzon Pinot Noir, maybe the best California Pinot I've ever had for a tad over sixty bucks). Bottom line for me: these guys are doing something that no one else is attempting. If you are serious about food, check them out. They deserve your support.
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